“You’ll find yourself yawning a lot,” says Ruta Kapacinskaite from the Birstonas tourism board, whose just welcomed us to thus Lithuanian spa town.
“It’s because there’s so much oxygen here”, she goes on to explain, “the forest all around us, the lack of pollution, it’s means the atmosphere of Birstonas is super clean.”
“In fact,” she adds, “you may even get a headache or feel nauseas after a few days here because the air is so pure.”
This is not, let’s be clear, what I’ve signed up to feel at the end of a wellness break.
Arriving into Lithuania to celebrate the country’s new success as wellness travel winner, I was hoping to feel more rejuvenated, revitalised and relaxed by the end of my trip, rather than unwell.
After all, recuperation and recovery is exactly why people have been travelling to Birstonas for centuries.
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Made famous in 1851, when natural mineral springs were discovered here, the city of Birstonas quickly became renowned as a place of healing, thanks to its nutrient-dense waters.
Traditional processes centred on drinking and bathing in the rich mineral water, were later complimented by mud baths and wraps from nearby, nutrient-dense sources, and these are both now paired with a whole array of modern wellness techniques that, together, offer visitors all-encompassing holistic health stays.
Checking in at the Hotel Vytautas Mineral Spa, one of 3 medical spas in the city, I’m greeted by a sea of fellow guests all in white, spa bathrobes, who float through reception, out to the gardens and downstairs to the inclusive spa facilities.
Dropping my stuff and throwing on a swimming costume, plus my provided robe and slippers, I quickly follow them – I might be trying to relax here, but I still want to get my money’s worth!
Downstairs, I’m greeted by a huge spa area with several pools, jacuzzi, sauna and steam rooms – all of varying temperatures and sizes.
Bustling thanks to the easter holiday, the children’s area has a slightly waterpark feel to it, but grabbing a lounger by the huge windows, as great streams of natural light and views of Birstonas’ lake pour in, is wonderful relaxing.
I quickly learn 2 things.
First that the swimming pools here are mineralised, which means even the kids splashing about are getting a good nutrient recharge.
And 2, that the complimentary spa slippers are not for this area.
Luckily I have a pair of flip flops back in my room, which hurriedly return to put on – soggy and slippery is most definitely not the vibe!
Back on terra firma, it’s time to try the hotel’s unique saunas (namely vytautas, himalaya and herbal), as well as the salt and aromatherapy steam rooms, which all incorporate local mineralised water,
With an insatiable thirst for all things spa, I then head for a 30 minute mineral water bath before getting rolled up like a burrito in a warming tinfoil-esque mud wrap.
This is followed by an oxygen therapy session (breathing in mineralised air through a mask) and halotherapy session (reclining on a lounger in a salt chamber, again with mineralised air) and it’s safe to say this spa lover is in her element!
And mercifully, there’s not been a headache in site – although I am yawning a lot.
Unclear whether this is down to the high relaxation or high oxygen levels, I decide to put Ruta’s theory to the test with an evening sunset hot air balloon ride – although it quickly dawns on me this activity is neither relaxing nor boasts high oxygen levels.
What it does boast, I realise as I’m suspended some 700m in the air above Birstonas, is another kind of wellness.
As the buildings of Birstonas get smaller and smaller, and the true size of forest becoming clearer as it stretches all the way to the horizon (the River Nemanus charting its way through the trees), a peacefulness and tranquillity take over – the mild panic of being kept alive only thanks a balloon and a basket nearly a mile in the air, gives way to a powerful feeling of perspective.
Back on terra firma for the second time that day, a delicious vegetarian meal at Eklektika at Ego Spa, with its vegetable-heavy dishes (my idea of heaven!) was the perfect grounding activity, before it was time to let the treatments of the day do their magic during my beauty sleep!
Birstonas, it turns out, is not the only wellness winning entry in Lithuania’s portfolio.
Druskininkai, another spa city under 100km away, also makes the hit list.
With a name that translates as Salt City, Druskininkai has been welcoming guests to its lakeside shores since 1794 – an impressive wellness legacy that also has its roots in the native mineral springs, which according to our guide are more nutrient-dense than those of Baden-Baden!
In tribute to this, public fountains are found across the quaint, manicured city, where locals can collect the healing water pumped direct from underground – some of it so mineral-rich it can’t be drunk, only applied to the skin.
Alongside its incredible waters and rich mud treatments, Druskininkai’s 5 medical resorts also utilise progressive contemporary practises, which together have helped chart the city’s ascent to modern healing mecca.
From biohacking techniques, to gut health and the important of familial-emotional connections, a consultation with Dr Konstantin Ovsyannikov, an endocrinologist at Spa Vilniuis in Druskininkai, quickly illuminates the inspiringly holistic attitude to wellness this medical spa takes.
The large mineral water fountains at the hotel’s heart, where guests eagerly fill up bottles, puts this precious elixir at the core of what they offer – the rest of Spa Vilnius Druskininkai acting almost like a sanctuary around it.
From stunning, light rooms with premium linen, modern amenities and terrace doors that lead straight out to the garden; to the wholesome onsite restaurant where the aim is to promote healthy microbiome development, this is a luxurious and sophisticated wellness resort where you can truly switch off.
Feeling like I practically live in a spa bathrobe by this point, my amber and sound healing session, full body massage, hand paraffin treatment, swim, sauna and steam at the hotel leaves me with a floating feeling… as I struggle even to remember my room number!
So the only thing really left to do is eat!
I opt fot Velvetti, one of Lithuania’s 30 best restaurants, and a delightful tasting experience rooted in seasonal and local cuisine.
Owner, Remigijus Zizys, sheepishly presents each stunning small dish, almost coy about the achievements of his family restaurant, as he describes delicious sourdough baked onsite from a 100 year old starter, mushroom crème brûlée from natively foraged varieties, and several things with potatoes I didn’t even know you could combine in one dish!
After dinner, I round up my wellness trip with a digestive stroll, heading to the Druskininkai Daffodil Fields, where I’m told there’s a free, nightly light and fountain show.
Being a small city of less than 15,000 people, I have to admit, I expect the spectacle to be rather provincial, but to my surprise, it’s a hugely impressive performance that rivals some of the best laser shows I’ve seen at UK festivals!
In a way, it reflects Lithuania’s wellness scene all over – impressive and inspiring well beyond its size.
And I haven’t even felt a bit nauseous!
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Mini Travel Guide to Lithuania
How to Get to Birstonas and Druskininkai
The easiest airport to fly to is Kausas. Use Skyscanner to find the cheapest flights.
From there, you can catch an easy bus to either Birstonas or Druskininkai.
The journey takes less than 2 hours.
Book your tickets through Autobus Ubilietai.
When to Visit
Winters in Lithuania are cold and snowy, while summers are hot and sunny.
I think the springs month of April, May and June are the best time – sunshine and blue skies, without being too hot.
How Long to Spend in Lithuania
Buy packages at both Hotel Vytautas and Spa Vilnius that include multiple-daily treatments ranging from overnight to 1 month stays.
You can also book simple bed and breakfast stays of both resorts that include access to their spa areas.
Travel Insurance
World Nomads offers simple and flexible travel insurance. Buy at home or while travelling and claim online from anywhere in the world.
Alternatively, if you’re a long-term traveller, digital nomad or frequent remote worker seeking travel health cover, check out Safetywing’s Nomad Insurance policies.
eSIM
I recommend Holafly.
Get 5% off with my exclusive discount code: BIGWORLDSMALLPOCKETS.
Travel Money
Lithuania uses the Euro.
I always travel Europe with my Wise card, which makes spending abroad cheaper, thank to real exchange rates and no sneaky transaction or ATM fees.
Wise cards works just like a debit card and link easily with Google and Apple pay.
Grab yours here.
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My trip to Lithuania was gifted by Lithuania Travel but, as always, all views are my own.
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